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One of the most idyllic places in the world, Palawan, lies to the southwest of the Philippines. Not far from Borneo to the south – with which it shares much of its magnificent nature – and far enough away from the Philippine mainland that its natural beauty remains relatively pristine. Here are a few things you’ll never hear said about this special destination.

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Palawan is ugly

There are mountains and vast oceans, limestone karsts and underground rivers, but Palawan is most associated with its perfect white sand beaches and crystal clear turquoise waters, so clear that swimming is a must. With relatively untouched corals and a wealth of underwater life to boot, to call Palawan ugly would never cross the mind of anyone who has seen pictures of the place, let alone been to this jewel of the Philippines.

There’s nothing to see or do here

Aquatic activities abound – from snorkelling and diving to kayaking, swimming and boating around the tranquil lagoons. Big Lagoon and Small Lagoon, in particular, are the unimaginatively named, but stunningly beautiful natural swimming holes, sheltered by towering limestone karst walls and visited by most who venture to El Nido in the North of Palawan and the various islands that make up the nearby Bacuit Archipelago.

On land there’s the opportunity to trek through jungles that have more in common with the famous rainforests of Borneo than with anything in the Philippines. Later, visit mangroves, check out the prehistoric Tabon caves, climb 2085-metre high Mt. Mantalingajan and discover the crystal clear lakes of Coron, including Kayangan and Barracuda. The latter is of particular interest to divers for its layers of fresh, salt and brackish water and the stark changes in temperature between them.

The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park is a limestone cave that contains one of the world’s longest navigable river-traversed tunnels in the world, and visitors can don hard hats and clamber aboard a small boat to travel five of the eight kilometres that it runs.

The beaches are spoilt

Head out to the islands, many of which are part of marine reserves, and you’ll find incredibly clean waters and untainted beaches that are unsurpassed elsewhere.

The oceans are empty

Underwater life off Palawan is incredible, thanks in part to the protection in place in certain areas including the Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park, a UNESCO world heritage site containing marine biodiversity that accounts for 75 per cent of the world’s described coral species and 40 per cent of its reef fish, and the Apo Reef Natural Park which is the Philippines’ largest contiguous coral reef. There are also a number of accessible shipwrecks, sunk at various times during the recent history of the Philippines that are ripe for exploring, as well as underwater caves.

There’s no privacy

There are small beaches throughout the Bacuit Archipelago of islands, and elsewhere off El Nido, and each one is a potential prime spot for a private picnic, a romantic meal or a spot of totally secluded sunbathing – that’s not something you’ll find often elsewhere.

You’ll quickly run out of new places to explore

You’ll want to spend a bit of time in Palawan as getting around can be time-consuming, but you won’t run out of things to do, particularly at sea. Small caves, swim-through holes and lagoons abound. From the sprawling mass of islands that make up Bacuit Archipelago to Matinloc Island, home to the Christian Matinloc Shrine, which is worth a look, and Secret Beach, accessible only through a small hole underwater. Go to Pinasil Island to catch a glimpse of monitor lizards scaling the limestone walls of its coves.

There’s no history to Palawan

Old colonial churches and a sunken fleet of 12 Japanese ships from World War II are just a couple of the historic attractions in Palawan. The Palawan Museum in Puerto Princesa displays Chinese trade pottery and Spanish relics, as well as pre-historic artifacts found in the Tabon Caves. There’s also the capital’s Immaculate Conception Cathedral, built in 1872. Visit the former capital Taytay and explore the Santa Isabel Fort and Santa Monica Church, which hark back to the Philippines years as a Spanish colony.

The sunsets are the worst

Can you believe how ugly?

There’s not much to eat

Being so close to incredible, bountiful oceans, there’s plenty of seafood on offer here that’s fresher than fresh and locally sourced. In Puerto Princesa, a top spot is KaLui, specialising in seafood with an artsy vibe and creative interior décor. If you’re looking for something simple, there is also great pizza to be found at Bistro Coron.

Palawan has nothing unique to offer

Aren’t white sand beaches and clear blue seas ubiquitous in Asia? Maybe so, but there’s much more to Palawan, particularly when it comes to nature. The region boasts a number of species endemic to Palawan, including the Palawan bearcat, the Palawan peacock-pheasant and the Calmian dear. According to World Wildlife Fund, Palawan is home to 15 endemic, or near-endemic mammals and 20 endemic and near-endemic bird species. It also shares 23 bird species with neighbour Borneo that are not found anywhere else in the Philippines.

It’s really hard to get to

Known as the Philippines’ last frontier, Palawan is nevertheless served by Puerto Princesa Airport, El Nido Airport and Sandoval Airport, as well as Busuanga Airport on Coron Island, each offering flights to and from Manila, while ferries also carry passengers from Manila, Iloilo on Panay and San Jose on Mindoro.

Featured image: nennn, El Nido Palawan Big Lagoon, via Flickr CC BY 2.0

Slider image: Kroisenbrunner, El Nido, via Wikimedia Commons CC BY-SA 4.0

About the author

Rachel DuffellRachel Duffell is a Hong Kong-based writer and editor, who loves to discover Asia and the many adventures it has to offer, whether it's hiking volcanoes in Lombok, Indonesia, eating red ants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, running across the hills of Hong Kong, washing elephants in Nepal, sight-seeing in Penang, Malaysia, or anything else.

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